Four days in New Orleans

Café du Monde

“At 7am it is a different place entirely. Beignets and chicory coffee.”

Walk the French Quarter

“Royal Street, not Bourbon. Antique shops and nobody shouting.”

St. Louis Cathedral and Jackson Square

Lunch at Cochon Butcher

“The sandwich counter next to the restaurant. Cheaper, no booking.”

Ogden Museum of Southern Art

“Quiet, well-lit, nearly empty on a weekday.”

Dinner at Cochon

“Rabbit and dumplings. Book.”

Hotel Peter and Paul

“A converted church and schoolhouse. Odd and lovely.”

Streetcar up St. Charles

“Ride the whole line and back. A dollar fifty and the best tour in the city.”

Garden District walk

“Start at Lafayette Cemetery and wander. The houses are the thing.”

Lunch at Commander's Palace

“The lunch martinis are a tradition. Jacket for men.”

Nap

“After those martinis, required.”

Preservation Hall → on Frenchmen and heard better music.

“Queue was absurd. Went to d.b.a. on Frenchmen and heard better music.”

Frenchmen Street

“Spotted Cat, then d.b.a. No cover at either. Better than Bourbon by a mile.”

Hotel Peter and Paul

Breakfast at Willa Jean

“The biscuit. Also the cookie dough, at breakfast, unapologetically.”

National WWII Museum

“Half a day if you let it. We gave it three hours and wanted more.”

Lunch at Turkey and the Wolf

“Fried bologna. It is as good as everyone says.”

Walk the Marigny

“Painted shotgun houses, very few people.”

Dinner at Herbsaint

Hotel Peter and Paul

Café du Monde

“Again, early again.”

City Park and the sculpture garden

“Free, enormous, and almost nobody there.”

Lunch at Parkway Bakery

“Roast beef po'boy, debris and all. Eat it outside.”